'Si Lolita' by Lolita Lempicka
Munich Insight by Karin Sawetz, June 2009
In June 2009, the French fashion label and fragrance brand Lolita Lempicka invited journalists to the presentation of the new baroque boudoir inspired scent 'Si Lolita' to Munich.
Beauty journalism is a strange profession; if a beauty journalist ever sees a heterosexual man, he is in 99,99% not a colleague. But not so in Munich; in this city it was the first time ever that I have seen a heterosexual male beauty journalist! Certainly I have asked how he got the idea to take up this profession: "Have you searched for a job to become the only man at a hen party?"
Beauty journalism and the materialisation of a scent
Probably such superficial themes like gender differences become so important in beauty journalism because the product itself - the scent, never materializes. To write about the subject 'perfume' is only on the first look easy to handle. In this 'immaterial' field the flacon - often designed by jewellers, and the packaging become the visual representatives of the scent. Sometimes you can guess the spices and blossoms of the scent from the mostly jewel-like flacons. But not all flacons tell the story of the ingredients of the scent or its olfactory impressions; some flacons are developed from an idea of the role of a woman or a man, or give another insight into the daily life of today's society, especially the relationship between men and women. In sum, beauty journalists are cultural chroniclers of our society from a very delicious point of view.
The sensual impressions of the scent
In Munich the team of Lolita Lempicka has arranged everything to deliver as much information about a product which can not be seen - the scent.
What to think The French designer Lolita Lempicka has created her own baroque universe of fashion, fragrance, chocolates, tees... Everything fits together and is made of love for details. It is a dreamy world and her products seem to be created to step into a garden of flowers and spices where everything is sweet and light. A place where luck and love is waiting for you.
This is the first impression from the sensual travel.
fig.: The four-leave clover stands for 'bonheur' - the good wishing intention of the scent. The leaves become hearts on this flacon. Not only the packaging, even the olfactory creation shall evoke the feeling of luck and love. You can see the flacon standing on musslin with red polka-dots. Lolita Lempicka publishes in her diary-styled booklet: "Red ribbon and burgundy-coloured polka dots symbolise the carefree attitude and ardour of a liberated, sensual woman."
What to see In another room, the Lolita-team has set on stage a boudoir scenery with a bed decorated with roses surrounded by baskets with strawberries, apples, and many different fruits from a French garden. In between poppies; they are reflected on the soft muslin of the Lolita Lempicka lingerie on the mannequin which stands vis á vis of the image for the campaign.
The surprise of the scent After the baroque boudoir impressions, the 'nose test' unveils a surprise: with tonca beans, amber, patchouli, the peppery gum 'elemi'... the story gets a new plot line: this boudoir is female, but has strong male accords!
The booklet in the style of a romantic diary informs that the Lolita Lempicka 'Si Lolita' signature note is a new interpretation of men's scents. 'Si Lolita' expresses an unruly temperament of spices in the playful hands of women! The wild growing sweet peas are dominating the scent with freshness and lightness.
The heterogeneity of beauty journalism
At this point of the story, beauty journalism chronicles much more than the work of designers, perfumers, flacon makers, and all the people who are engaged in projects with the aim to deliver the delicious things in life; it documents the social changes - especially the role of women in our society.
The fragrance is composed by Christine Nagel and Benoist Lapouza. 'Si Lolita' comes to perfumeries in September 2009.
Karin Sawetz is journalist, media researcher and fashion scientist (Mag. Dr. phil.). > sawetz.com
Read more about Lolita Lempicka and her translation of endless love and women's vital necessity for freedom into the fragrance 'L de Lolita Lempicka. Fleur de Corail' on beautyme.com/fragrance/2009/lempicka2-2009.htm.